WEBVTT
Kind: captions
Language: en

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If you’ve ever wondered how street lights know&nbsp;that it’s dark outside,

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well there’s a good chance it’s thanks to one of these.

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This is a photocell&nbsp;light control.

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It has a light sensor on its side and a few electrical connections on the bottom,

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and when wired appropriately into a light fixture,
it will prevent that light from coming on when&nbsp;the sun’s up

00:00:21.316 --> 00:00:23.460
(and turn it on when the sun sets).

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But… how exactly is it doing that?

00:00:28.368 --> 00:00:31.720
Simply&nbsp;saying “a light sensor turns the light off”

00:00:31.720 --> 00:00:36.000
doesn’t really explain what’s actually going on inside of&nbsp;here, does it?

00:00:36.364 --> 00:00:39.420
After all, what even is a sensor?

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Perhaps that sounds like a silly&nbsp;question,
but the thing inside of this that actually turns on and off&nbsp;the light it controls…

00:00:48.000 --> 00:00:49.607
is a thermostat.

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Yeah, this thing is a little more rube-goldbergy&nbsp;than it might seem at first glance.

00:00:55.722 --> 00:00:59.995
The actual light sensing doodad is likely a familiar sight.

00:00:59.995 --> 00:01:08.616
Take a look at a common night light and you’ll find a smaller 
but very similar looking component&nbsp;under this bit of clear plastic.

00:01:08.616 --> 00:01:14.922
The squiggly dark orange line through a shiny metal plate
is&nbsp;the tell-tale of a photoresistor,

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an electronic component also known as a light-dependent resistor&nbsp;or LDR.

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As its name might suggest, the electrical resistance of this component
changes based on the amount of light that hits it.

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We can see this in action if I take this&nbsp; apart and hook up a multimeter.

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Notice that as more light hits the photoresistor, the&nbsp;measured resistance decreases.

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In other words, the more light that hits it,
the more easily&nbsp;electric current can flow through this component.

00:01:46.560 --> 00:01:51.594
You might have realized that&nbsp;
this is backwards to the goal of a nightlight -

00:01:51.594 --> 00:01:54.431
the nightlight should come&nbsp;on when it’s dark,

00:01:54.431 --> 00:02:00.060
and the photoresistor on its own would make it harder to light the&nbsp;bulb at night
and easier during the day.

00:02:00.780 --> 00:02:05.880
Accordingly, the photoresistor is only part&nbsp;of the equation - hence the circuit board.

00:02:06.420 --> 00:02:11.880
In addition to the photoresistor,
there’s&nbsp; also an ordinary resistor and a thyristor.&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:02:12.540 --> 00:02:17.233
This trio of istors is what actually makes&nbsp;the circuit function.

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Power flows in from the live pin and up through this bit of copper
which passes for a lamp holder these days.

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Once it’s made it through the filament of&nbsp;the incandescent bulb,

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it comes back down this other bit of copper and hits one side of the&nbsp;thyristor.

00:02:32.536 --> 00:02:36.787
That thyristor is a semiconductor which serves both as a diode

00:02:36.787 --> 00:02:41.413
(meaning it only allows&nbsp;current to flow through it in one direction, which, fun fact,

00:02:41.413 --> 00:02:46.586
has the side-effect&nbsp;of only running the lamp at half-power
which’ll greatly extend its life)

00:02:46.586 --> 00:02:56.580
but also, and&nbsp;more importantly, it serves as a power switch, interrupting the circuit and preventing the lamp&nbsp;from lighting unless it sees a control input.

00:02:57.720 --> 00:03:02.664
This is pretty confusing to look at so I’ve&nbsp;drawn this as a circuit diagram.

00:03:02.664 --> 00:03:08.370
What we really have here is an ordinary lamp circuit with&nbsp;
the thyristor interrupting it in the middle.&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:03:08.940 --> 00:03:12.521
As drawn, this would never light the bulb.

00:03:12.521 --> 00:03:19.462
But&nbsp;if we provide an input by way of a bit of current flowing to the gate of the thyristor, that’s&nbsp;its middle pin,

00:03:19.462 --> 00:03:25.740
then it will relax and allow current to flow from one side to the other,
which&nbsp;will complete the circuit and light the lamp.

00:03:26.700 --> 00:03:30.620
That activation current comes from the resistor&nbsp;here.

00:03:30.620 --> 00:03:36.249
It provides a path for current to flow between this point and the thyristor’s&nbsp;gate.

00:03:36.249 --> 00:03:43.283
With this in the circuit by itself, now the light will never go out
(assuming the&nbsp;bulb isn’t burnt out).

00:03:43.283 --> 00:03:49.200
The resistor will always provide enough current
for the thyristor&nbsp;to activate and allow the light to turn on.

00:03:50.100 --> 00:03:54.839
However, that resistor is a 2&nbsp;megaohm resistor.

00:03:54.839 --> 00:04:02.160
It lets a tiny, tiny amount of current through itself,
in fact&nbsp;barely enough to activate the thyristor.&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:04:02.453 --> 00:04:08.820
It would thus be very easy to disrupt that input,&nbsp;
which is precisely what the photoresistor is for.

00:04:09.600 --> 00:04:15.403
Notice that it’s connected between the neutral&nbsp;pin of the plug and this point here.

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When it’s dark enough,

00:04:16.935 --> 00:04:24.639
the resistance of the photoresistor&nbsp;is sufficiently high to where it doesn’t affect anything about the circuit and the lamp lights.

00:04:24.639 --> 00:04:28.709
But when light hits&nbsp;it, its resistance falls.

00:04:28.709 --> 00:04:35.611
Once it’s low enough, it provides an alternative path for that activation&nbsp;current coming from the resistor to take,

00:04:35.611 --> 00:04:41.161
so that current bypasses the thyristor’s gate&nbsp;and the lamp doesn't light.

00:04:41.161 --> 00:04:42.000
It's pretty simple.

00:04:42.600 --> 00:04:50.093
Because of the way this circuit works, some&nbsp;current is always flowing - 
but it’s hardly any at all.

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That 2 megaohm resistor, at 120V,&nbsp;dissipates a whole 0.0072 watts.

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And that’s assuming it's wired directly to neutral.

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Which it isn’t - it’s in series with the lamp filament,
which adds another 400 ohms or so.

00:05:06.936 --> 00:05:12.268
The thyristor&nbsp;needs absolutely miniscule amounts of current to become activated,

00:05:12.268 --> 00:05:19.429
so while this circuit is&nbsp;technically drawing a little power during the day,
it’s practically zero.

00:05:19.429 --> 00:05:27.661
Also noteworthy, thyristors&nbsp;exhibit a sort-of latching behavior and,
once activated with sufficient&nbsp;current flowing through the gate,

00:05:27.661 --> 00:05:32.540
stay activated until the zero-crossing of the AC&nbsp;power cycle.

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This is why the lamp will fade to life as it gets dark
rather than just snap to full brightness.

00:05:38.693 --> 00:05:43.980
When most but not all of the activation current bypasses through the photoresistor,

00:05:43.980 --> 00:05:51.180
the&nbsp;thyristor will periodically kick the lamp to life at the tail end of each power cycle,&nbsp;
behaving much like a dimmer switch does.

00:05:51.720 --> 00:05:57.600
This circuit is really quite elegant
and it works&nbsp;just fine for controlling a tiny little light bulb.&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:05:58.140 --> 00:06:01.794
But it’s not enough to control a street light

00:06:01.794 --> 00:06:04.980
which might have a lightbulb like this -

00:06:04.980 --> 00:06:08.507
and this thing draws 1,000 watts.

00:06:08.507 --> 00:06:11.747
For this, you’re gonna&nbsp;need something a lot more robust.

00:06:11.747 --> 00:06:14.105
Like the thing I showed you at the beginning.

00:06:14.105 --> 00:06:19.801
This light control&nbsp;can interrupt the full 15 amps of a standard US lighting circuit,

00:06:19.801 --> 00:06:23.822
and in fact is even rated for up to&nbsp;277 volts.

00:06:23.822 --> 00:06:31.585
This style, with its twist-lock plug, is commonly used atop individual light fixtures
and meant for easy replacement,

00:06:31.585 --> 00:06:38.003
but they’re also available in little modules like this that&nbsp;
you wire into whatever you want to control.

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There are two important things to note about these&nbsp;things:

00:06:41.451 --> 00:06:47.735
First, the photoresistors on them are a lot larger than what we see in the nightlight.

00:06:47.735 --> 00:06:51.764
And second,&nbsp;both of them have three electrical connections.

00:06:51.764 --> 00:06:57.713
There’s the incoming power, the switched outgoing&nbsp;power,
and neutral as well.

00:06:57.713 --> 00:07:06.770
That tells us that the photocontrols operate independently of the loads&nbsp;they control, and likely consume a little bit of power themselves.

00:07:06.770 --> 00:07:12.808
Now you might think that there’s some&nbsp;sort of logic circuitry in these things controlling a relay or something,

00:07:12.808 --> 00:07:16.651
but their operation is in fact much simpler than that.

00:07:17.434 --> 00:07:19.128
Let’s pop the cover off this one.

00:07:19.500 --> 00:07:21.839
It’s pretty empty in here, isn’t it?

00:07:21.839 --> 00:07:29.014
We just&nbsp;have the photoresistor on a little mounting plate,
then some kind of component touching a small&nbsp;circuit board.

00:07:29.014 --> 00:07:36.186
It’s clear that this component is the actual switch
as it has fairly large wires&nbsp;connected to either side of it,

00:07:36.186 --> 00:07:39.019
but what do you suppose is going on beneath it?

00:07:39.019 --> 00:07:45.106
That little&nbsp;board has a lead going to the incoming power,
and another going to the photoresistor.

00:07:45.106 --> 00:07:48.829
Then the&nbsp;other side of the photoresistor is wired straight to the neutral pin.

00:07:49.730 --> 00:07:54.120
To get a better idea of what’s&nbsp;going on, let’s remove that mystery component.

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Betcha didn’t think we’d find&nbsp;thermal paste in this thing, did ya?

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If you’ve ever done any sort of appliance&nbsp;repair, you might recognize this thing.

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This is a thermostatic switch.

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Normally&nbsp;it’s closed and will allow power to flow through.

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But inside of it there’s a bimetallic disc which&nbsp;will deform as temperature rises.

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[click]

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Once it’s past a certain temperature,
that disc&nbsp;will snap and open the switch contacts inside.

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You often find these used as safety switches&nbsp;in appliances 
that produce a lot of heat,&nbsp;like clothes dryers or gas-fired furnaces.

00:08:31.109 --> 00:08:38.820
In those&nbsp;applications they might be called limit switches,
and they’re designed to shut the&nbsp;appliance down if things are getting too hot.

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What’s it doing in here?

00:08:41.566 --> 00:08:48.035
Well, before I removed&nbsp;it it was pressing against this little circuit board
with a little thermal paste in between.

00:08:48.035 --> 00:08:52.121
That circuit board has nothing on it but a couple of surface-mount resistors

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(as well&nbsp;as a PTC thermistor to serve as a fuse, but that’s not important right now).

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Those&nbsp;resistors are doing the simplest job a resistor can possibly do - produce heat.

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That’s right,&nbsp;this circuit board is functioning as a heater.

00:09:07.920 --> 00:09:11.801
Surface mount resistors are certainly&nbsp;an unconventional heating element,&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:09:11.801 --> 00:09:15.060
but that’s what they’re doing and they’re&nbsp;
doing a bang-up job, too, so don’t judge.

00:09:15.660 --> 00:09:18.479
But notice how that heater circuit is wired.

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It’s&nbsp;across live and neutral,
but it makes a little diversion through our friend the photoresistor.

00:09:24.600 --> 00:09:29.669
Knowing what we’ve learned about photoresistors,
think about what that would do.

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If I wire this&nbsp;up and we take a look with a thermal camera,

00:09:32.995 --> 00:09:39.070
in a dark room we can see that the heater is on,&nbsp;
but it’s just a little warm.

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It’s trying to heat up, but the photoresistor is in a state of high resistance,
preventing power from flowing.

00:09:46.000 --> 00:09:53.028
When I shine a light onto the photoresistor, though,
its&nbsp;resistance falls and the heater immediately gets warmer -

00:09:53.028 --> 00:09:55.759
in fact it gets pretty hot.

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So we&nbsp;have a heater circuit that gets hotter when more light hits this thing,

00:10:00.760 --> 00:10:05.633
and we have a limit&nbsp;switch that opens a circuit when it gets too hot.

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I wonder what would happen if we put them toget—

00:10:08.885 --> 00:10:11.220
oh, right, that's how it was when I got it.

00:10:11.820 --> 00:10:15.769
With it reassembled, here’s what we see in the&nbsp;thermal camera.

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Again, when powered on in the dark, we can see the faintest little hot-spot.

00:10:20.894 --> 00:10:26.616
But when I shine a light on the photoresistor,
that hot spot gets bigger and...

00:10:26.616 --> 00:10:27.817
hot.

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The resistors on&nbsp;that board are dissipating about 2.5 watts,

00:10:31.983 --> 00:10:36.120
and the thermal paste is transferring that&nbsp;heat energy
into the face of the thermal switch.

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The switch remains closed for about 2&nbsp;minutes,

00:10:40.226 --> 00:10:41.082
but eventually

00:10:41.082 --> 00:10:41.767
[click]

00:10:41.767 --> 00:10:42.427
it opens.

00:10:43.200 --> 00:10:47.848
One thing to note is that the photoresistor&nbsp;is also a resistor in the circuit

00:10:47.848 --> 00:10:50.532
so it, too, dissipates a bit of heat.

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However, the big metal plate it’s mounted on doubles as a heat sink,
so&nbsp;it’s barely visible to the thermal camera.

00:10:57.360 --> 00:11:02.335
I’ve wired up this totally-legit streetlight&nbsp;in a definitely-not-sketchy fashion

00:11:02.335 --> 00:11:06.244
to provide a demonstration of the photocontrol in action.

00:11:06.244 --> 00:11:15.120
Right now, the sun is up, so the photoresistor is letting enough current through to keep the heater&nbsp;powered and the thermostatic switch nice and toasty.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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But as we approach sundown, the heater&nbsp;slowly loses power
as the photoresistor’s&nbsp;resistance increases,

00:11:22.868 --> 00:11:25.537
and thus its heat&nbsp;output falls.

00:11:25.537 --> 00:11:29.882
In this... simulated sunset, the heater instantly shuts off,

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but it takes a&nbsp;while for the thermostatic switch to cool down.

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Once it does, the switch will close, and&nbsp;the light turns on.

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[click]

00:11:38.418 --> 00:11:40.048
Ah, there we are.

00:11:40.048 --> 00:11:47.322
The delay is actually quite useful, especially&nbsp;for lighting technologies
like the high pressure sodium lamp you see here.

00:11:47.322 --> 00:11:52.048
Ideally, you want to minimize&nbsp;the number of times these lamps start up,

00:11:52.048 --> 00:12:00.319
and the varying lighting conditions as the sun rises and&nbsp;sets 
could result in some wild behavior at dawn and dusk.

00:12:00.319 --> 00:12:06.087
The thermal mass of the thermostatic&nbsp;switch,
along with its deadband between activation temperatures,

00:12:06.087 --> 00:12:13.353
provides the perfect combination&nbsp;of delay factors
to ensure the light it controls doesn’t behave erratically.

00:12:14.006 --> 00:12:17.993
Some people would really like&nbsp;me to say the word “hysteresis.”

00:12:17.993 --> 00:12:18.833
You’re welcome!

00:12:19.200 --> 00:12:24.466
Now, earlier I said the resistors in here dissipate&nbsp;about 2 and a half watts.

00:12:24.466 --> 00:12:32.055
That means that, ironically, this thing consumes power
in order&nbsp;to save power.

00:12:32.055 --> 00:12:38.627
Since the smallest lamp one of these might control is about 50 watts,
it’s still&nbsp;definitely worth having one of these.

00:12:38.627 --> 00:12:39.304
[click]

00:12:39.304 --> 00:12:44.463
But putting one on top of every light fixture doesn’t always&nbsp;make sense.

00:12:44.463 --> 00:12:47.800
Not only does that make each light fixture more expensive,

00:12:47.800 --> 00:12:52.668
but it also means every&nbsp;single one is consuming a little bit of power all the time

00:12:52.668 --> 00:12:54.383
and that adds up.

00:12:54.383 --> 00:12:59.269
So in many cases, banks&nbsp;of streetlights are wired to a central location,

00:12:59.269 --> 00:13:04.380
and a single one of these things is used to&nbsp;control a contactor
at the distribution point.

00:13:05.220 --> 00:13:10.980
The fact that these need power to turn things&nbsp;off also adds a fun little side-effect.

00:13:11.700 --> 00:13:18.443
The switch inside closes because&nbsp;the heater stopped heating,
which usually happens because the sun set,

00:13:18.443 --> 00:13:20.160
but&nbsp;that’s not the only reason it can happen!

00:13:20.880 --> 00:13:24.290
If, for example, there's a power outage&nbsp;during the day,

00:13:24.290 --> 00:13:31.620
the switches inside every one of these things will cool down and close
within just a&nbsp;few minutes despite the sun shining brightly.&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:13:32.340 --> 00:13:34.840
So when power comes back on,

00:13:34.840 --> 00:13:38.686
all those&nbsp;streetlights (and anything else controlled by one of these)

00:13:38.686 --> 00:13:45.761
will also come on for a minute&nbsp;or two
before the internal heater warms up enough to shut them off again.

00:13:46.279 --> 00:13:49.020
I mean, it’s pretty&nbsp;inconsequential, really, but it’s still fun.

00:13:49.680 --> 00:13:56.251
Something notable about this photocontrol&nbsp;is that its design
is actually quite a bit&nbsp;different from designs of the past,

00:13:56.251 --> 00:14:00.000
which you can&nbsp;perhaps tell by the massive lack of stuff inside of it.

00:14:00.720 --> 00:14:05.180
This is an old, standardized form-factor so&nbsp;the casing didn’t change

00:14:05.180 --> 00:14:10.680
but older versions often had something similar to what&nbsp;
we find inside this wire-in module.&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:14:11.400 --> 00:14:14.606
In practice, this is the same exact thing,

00:14:14.606 --> 00:14:22.221
with a photoresistor wired in-series with a resistor that acts as a heater,
only&nbsp;allowing that heater to function during the&nbsp;day.

00:14:22.221 --> 00:14:25.329
But instead of heating an off-the-shelf&nbsp;limit switch,

00:14:25.329 --> 00:14:27.360
it heats this bimetallic bar.

00:14:28.140 --> 00:14:35.852
As it warms up, the bar starts bending downward&nbsp;and applying force
to a spring-loaded switch&nbsp;contact through this screw.

00:14:35.852 --> 00:14:40.860
Once it’s warm&nbsp;enough (and thus bent enough),
 that switch contact snaps open.

00:14:41.820 --> 00:14:45.360
And on this particular module, it barely opens.&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:14:45.900 --> 00:14:48.230
Which is actually pretty disconcerting.

00:14:48.230 --> 00:14:53.227
But whatever, once the sun sets and the photoresistor
restricts flow through the&nbsp;heater,

00:14:53.227 --> 00:15:00.115
the bar starts to cool back down, move back to its original shape,
and eventually&nbsp;the switch contacts snap together again.

00:15:00.993 --> 00:15:07.965
Older versions of this puck-style twist-lock thingamajig&nbsp;
often had a very similar mechanism to this inside,

00:15:07.965 --> 00:15:13.560
perhaps with more robust contacts for handling&nbsp;
the inductive load of a big magnetic ballast.

00:15:14.340 --> 00:15:18.300
It’s not much of a surprise that this&nbsp;new one uses a limit switch, honestly,

00:15:18.300 --> 00:15:23.490
because that’s an off-the-shelf part used in&nbsp;gajillions of applications.

00:15:23.490 --> 00:15:30.334
The bimetallic bendy switch mechanism with a resistor taped to the bar&nbsp;
needs purpose-built parts.

00:15:30.334 --> 00:15:35.760
It also seems rather fiddly to put together,
and it looks as though the&nbsp;screw tension needed calibration in the factory.&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:15:36.960 --> 00:15:42.220
This design, on the other hand, is a&nbsp;three-component circuit board
which&nbsp;probably cost a few pennies,

00:15:42.220 --> 00:15:47.320
a dab of thermal&nbsp;paste, an off-the-shelf limit switch, and some screws.

00:15:47.320 --> 00:15:50.040
Wire in the photoresistor and you’re done.

00:15:50.603 --> 00:15:53.433
Is this as robust as the old designs?

00:15:54.198 --> 00:15:55.200
Who knows.

00:15:55.500 --> 00:15:59.295
But this surely isn’t the only way to handle&nbsp;this, is it?

00:15:59.295 --> 00:16:03.428
I mean, with microprocessor chips cheap as chips these days,

00:16:03.428 --> 00:16:13.245
wouldn’t a little&nbsp;code running on a microcontroller powering a relay make more sense than a heater running all&nbsp;day just to keep a thermostatic switch open?

00:16:13.980 --> 00:16:16.703
Well, take a look at this little fella.

00:16:16.703 --> 00:16:19.196
It’s like a baby version of the other one!

00:16:19.196 --> 00:16:23.040
And its photoresistor looks pretty small,&nbsp;
not much bigger than the night light’s.

00:16:23.820 --> 00:16:25.423
Let’s take a look inside.

00:16:26.234 --> 00:16:27.276
Oh.

00:16:27.276 --> 00:16:30.300
It literally&nbsp;is just a baby version of the other one.

00:16:31.320 --> 00:16:36.480
That actually surprised me quite a lot,
but&nbsp;I guess it proves that if it ain’t broke…

00:16:36.480 --> 00:16:40.220
Perhaps there are more power-efficient ways&nbsp;to handle this task,

00:16:40.220 --> 00:16:42.078
in fact I’m certain there are.

00:16:42.078 --> 00:16:44.600
But, they all have trade-offs.

00:16:44.600 --> 00:16:51.675
Any solution involving a&nbsp;microcontroller
is gonna need its own power supply to function which adds&nbsp;
costs.

00:16:51.675 --> 00:16:57.541
And then you’re gonna be sticking that thing on top of a light pole
with the sun beating&nbsp;down on it day after day.

00:16:57.541 --> 00:17:00.556
Capacitors tend to not like that.

00:17:00.556 --> 00:17:05.942
Plus, then you’re gonna need to figure&nbsp;out a way to introduce hysteresis in software,

00:17:05.942 --> 00:17:08.548
and if there’s one thing I know about&nbsp;software, it’s

00:17:08.638 --> 00:17:09.982
[sound locks up]

00:17:09.982 --> 00:17:10.482
pre

00:17:10.842 --> 00:17:11.489
ee, and oft

00:17:11.827 --> 00:17:13.208
half baked.

00:17:13.560 --> 00:17:18.239
There is definitely something to be said for&nbsp;a simple solution like this,

00:17:18.239 --> 00:17:25.380
and besides, the power they consume is minimal - 
especially&nbsp;when you use one to control 100 light poles.

00:17:25.980 --> 00:17:28.894
What I think is most interesting about these&nbsp;things

00:17:28.894 --> 00:17:35.894
is they are a perfect demonstration of how to turn an electronic component into&nbsp;something that’s actually useful.

00:17:35.894 --> 00:17:41.015
It’s one thing to learn what a photoresistor does,

00:17:41.015 --> 00:17:43.680
and&nbsp;quite another to make something happen with it.

00:17:44.220 --> 00:17:47.142
And there’s more than one way to go about it!

00:17:47.142 --> 00:17:52.923
The&nbsp;nightlight shows an elegant
semiconductor-based solution for low-power applications.

00:17:52.923 --> 00:17:58.781
And while&nbsp;turning a heater on and off with the sun
might seem pretty off-the-wall,

00:17:58.781 --> 00:18:02.820
when you know that bimetallic&nbsp;strips get all bendy when they heat up,

00:18:03.420 --> 00:18:06.060
that presents an opportunity&nbsp;for actuating a switch.&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:18:06.960 --> 00:18:13.334
All that it takes to turn that into a useful&nbsp;product
is for someone to make the connection.

00:18:14.235 --> 00:18:16.889
♫ painfully smooth jazz ♫

00:18:18.240 --> 00:18:21.114
The thing inside of here… hooh

00:18:21.114 --> 00:18:23.339
You’re gonna need something a lot more robust.

00:18:23.339 --> 00:18:25.800
Like the thing I showed&nbsp;you [clunk] at the begin--- crap!

00:18:27.480 --> 00:18:28.633
[frustration noises]

00:18:28.633 --> 00:18:30.139
...and the lamp lights.

00:18:30.139 --> 00:18:34.320
But&nbsp;when light falls on it, its resistance falls. When

00:18:36.180 --> 00:18:40.140
Surface-mount resistors are certainly an&nbsp;
unconventional heating element but they're, but&nbsp;

00:18:41.160 --> 00:18:44.649
With a photoresistor wired&nbsp;in series with a res --

00:18:44.649 --> 00:18:45.403
crap!

00:18:45.403 --> 00:18:47.294
However, that resist...

00:18:47.294 --> 00:18:50.263
However,&nbsp;that resistor is a two…

00:18:50.263 --> 00:18:51.140
however,

00:18:51.140 --> 00:18:52.404
maaahhhh

00:18:53.372 --> 00:18:55.069
What I think is most….

00:18:55.069 --> 00:18:56.396
What I… [clears throat]

00:18:56.396 --> 00:18:57.855
What I think is ppppbbblb

00:18:59.026 --> 00:19:02.197
All it takes is to turn that… haaaaaaa

00:19:03.728 --> 00:19:07.111
What's going on inside these things is weirder than you thought, huh?

00:19:07.111 --> 00:19:09.672
Just like the title said.

00:19:09.672 --> 00:19:14.671
I didn't really know how they work, but when I realized the light would turn on the heater, it clicked.

00:19:15.617 --> 00:19:19.391
Both conceptually, and because the switch opened.

